Guidance Notes

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Care of woodwork in churches
(with a note on the care of hinges and related metalwork)

While up to a generation ago woodwork in churches was generally in a more favourable environment than that afforded domestic furniture where heavy use and over-heated rooms can cause rapid deterioration, many modern churches have adequate central heating which can often cause substantial and rapid changes of temperature causing a worse environment than most domestic furniture has.

Woodwork

Wood of a great age will have darkened and probably be weakened and fragile from past insect attack and/or structurally rotted by ineffective damp-coursing. The latter will necessitate skilled treatment for both cause and effect. Insect attack if still affected can be self-treated by applying the appropriate fluid worm-killers, an operation requiring no particular skill.

The colour of the woodwork is most difficult to change without the risk of resultant patchiness which can be quite severe on carved or recessed areas. It can be done successfully by skilled craftsmen, but may prove a costly operation because of time taken. An improvement is often possible by cleaning the darker areas with genuine turpentine (not white spirit) to remove layers of grime and allowing it to dry for a few days and then applying beeswax polish. It is essential to experiment first on a not too obvious part and only if the result is satisfactory should the treatment be extended. In oak work a silver-grey colour is generally considered a desirable asset and it would be unwise to attempt any modification before seeking expert opinion regarding the particular result desired.

Where woodwork is seen to be rather jaded, an application of linseed oil mixed with an equal quantity of genuine turpentine will impart a reasonable gloss and tend to unify the colour. The preparation should be applied quite liberally with a cloth pad or cotton-wool and can with advantage be left on the work for up to two days before removing the surplus with clean rags. On no account must the oil be allowed to dry on the work beyond two days, otherwise a paint-like film will form as the oil becomes oxidised. Very pale coloured woods will be appreciably deepened in colour but this will revert back to some extent over a period of several months.

Gilded or partly gilded work should not be cleaned. Water is harmful and some gilding will be entirely removed by water. Painted woodwork should also be attended by an expert but, if it is of no particular merit, a light sponging with a very weak detergent in water is usually safe. Again, It is necessary to make an experiment first. Some paints shed their pigment in water. Never exceed the detergent ratio that is found to be safe in an experiment.

Varnished or polished woodwork is best attended by a French polisher if it is in poor condition. Subsequently, or if the woodwork is in good condition, it can be maintained by occasionally wax polishing.

Silicone waxes and furniture creams are generally more expensive and less suited to church furniture than a beeswax polish. Kept in airtight jars a few years supply of the latter can be made at a considerable saving over proprietary polishes. To make, shred two or three pounds of yellow beeswax, place in a vessel and just cover the shreddings with genuine turpentine. Place this vessel within a large one containing water and gently heat until the wax is fully dissolved, then pour into airtight containers. When cold the wax should be of the consistency of soft butter. Add a little more turpentine if it is too thick or more wax if it is too thin, putting the jars in the steamer to re-melt the wax. It is a good idea to have two grades, a thinner one for carved and moulded work, and a general purpose one of normal consistency.

Linseed oil is available in two types - raw and boiled, both are suitable, the raw oil being first choice, as it is paler. The percentage of genuine turpentine to be mixed is not critical. 40% is a good average. Turpentine substitute (i.e. white spirit) can be used instead of genuine turpentine at a 40% saving in cost for both wax and oil recipes, but their use should be confined to relatively unimportant softwoods.

Defects in the structure and damage should be treated professionally, thus avoiding any future criticism of unsatisfactory results from incorrect attention.

Doors should not be varnished or oiled; varnishing darkens the oak considerably and prevents the development of the silver open grained appearance for which it is so renowned. Oiling encourages the absorption of rust stains from the hinges and dirt into the wood. They should be treated with a good clear wood preservative, such as Cuprinol, Wykhamol or Peter Cox PCC every three years. This will feed the oak and will not prevent the development of the silver appearance.

Hinges

It is suggested that hinges are painted with a slightly off black matt paint as a pure black gives a rather lifeless appearance to the door. This can be made by mixing a little grey paint with the black. The suggested procedure:-

(i) clean off all rust with a stiff wire brush, making sure that the door is not scored in the process;

(ii) treat with a rust inhibitor;

(iii) give a first coat of primer; and

(iv) finish of with the off-black top coat.

An alternative treatment which can only be carried out if the hinges are already removed from the door, is oiling. The ironwork is heated gently with a blowlamp with great care being taken to ensure that individual parts are not overheated. Do not heat much over the boiling point of water and this can be tested by stopping as soon as a small amount of spittle hisses on the iron. DO NOT TEST BY DIPPING IN WATER, as tempering may be affected. This first heating is to remove corrosion deposits which scale off on heating and can be omitted if there is no corrosion present. It can be supplemented by careful brushing with a wire brush after cooling.

Heat very gently a second time to about the same temperature and then plunge into a bath of mineral oil. The heating opens up the pores of the metal and allows it to retain the oil.

Allow to cool and only replace the hinges on the door when completely dry so there is no chance of oil staining occurring. A single treatment can remain effective for up to about ten years.

If there is any doubt, the church's inspecting architect should be consulted, particularly if there appear to be difficulties not covered in the above notes.

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