Let's start with the building itself. 18th century Clapham was a village. Its small medieval church was falling down and was in the wrong place for the bankers and merchants who had built their mansions on the Common. In any case it didn't suit the Anglicanism of those new parishioners and their clergy who were to establish their reputation for reform onto an unsuspecting world. So a group of trustees (including the Speaker of the House of Commons) set out to build a new church on common-land appropriated by Act of Parliament. Designed by architect Kenton Couse whose other known works include the frontage of No 10 Downing Street, it cost just £5,000 including a clock by the firm who later built Big Ben!

On the northern end of Clapham Common, Holy Trinity was opened in 1776 - the year America declared its independence. It was built on the elegant lines of New England churches - except that this was a classical Anglican 'preaching box' with galleries on three sides and an immense three decker pulpit at the east end. On the top deck the parson preached, on the deck below he led the services and on the lowest deck the curate led the responses! Almost hidden behind the pulpit was an intrically carved wooden holy table. Classical and unpretentious it suited the protestant principles of its founders.

But over the past 2 centuries Holy Trinity has evolved, adapting to changes in churchmanship and its community. In 1797 better vestries were built, and the Rev. John Venn, Rector and notable Anglican mission strategist relayed his sermons to the overflow congregation by a metal speaking tube; in 1812 as Venn's popularity grew, a portico was built at the west end to shelter the 'carriage trade'. In the latter part of the 19th century, Holy Trinity's distinctive evangelical ethos was absorbed into a more central churchmanship so an eastward extension was built at the turn of the century incorporating a chancel, sanctuary and Lady Chapel.

Apart from war damage and repair, very little changed until the 1980s when major restoration was needed. The opportunity was taken to create a two level community centre - the Wilberforce Centre - in place of the Lady Chapel; to make a platform in front of the chancel so that the 18th century holy table could be brought back into use; to create a chapel and a reception/coffee area at the west end and most recently to turn the first floor vestries into a modern parish office. Would Wilberforce and his colleagues recognise their building? Of course they would but I suspect they would approve of its sympathetically achieved evolution too.

So what of the Holy Trinity people, how have they changed? I think that's where the Clapham sect would notice the most difference, and again would approve.

Just in case you didn't know, the Clapham Sect were a group of evangelical Christians - among them William Wilberforce, Henry Thornton, Granville Sharp, the Rev. John Venn (and his father Henry who as Holy Trinity's curate in the 1750s help launch Clapham on its evangelical course). Two hundred years ago they fought for and won the abolition of the slave trade and established Sierra Leone as a refuge for freed slaves; their members also founded the Church Mission Society and the British and Foreign Bible Society - and their base was Holy Trinity. In their time it was largely a church for the well-to-do! I suspect they'd approve of today's congregation, which like Clapham itself, is far more mixed - both culturally and economically.

In the 19th and 20th centuries, as the village became a suburb, Clapham's desirability dwindled. The very wealthy moved even further out, industry moved in and with it factory workers. The factories have now gone, of course, and what has taken their place are 'high-tech' service industry - and restaurants. Clapham's decline saw it classified as an urban priority area for a while and although it seems to be on the up and up, it remains an area of contrasts. Today City workers are once again attracted to Clapham as were Holy Trinity's founding fathers - not as a country retreat but because the 'square-mile' is just 20 minutes away on the Northern Line! Ethnic minorities in the parish are reflected in the congregation. There are many young families locally, again reflected at Holy Trinity. On the other hand, the local schools find it hard to recruit and retain teachers because, even with London weighting they are priced out of the housing market.

"Key workers must be provided with the means of serving the infrastructure essential for vibrant community life" said Holy Trinity Rector, David Isherwood. " And I'm not convinced that a grant of œ10,000 will even scratch the surface of the housing issue round here." Mind you if they do move in they shouldn't be short of somewhere to eat. There are 45 restaurants in Clapham, catering for those who haven't time to cook when they get home from the office. It's apparently a 'trendy' place to eat and at midnight, it's as busy and brightly lit as midday.

The Clapham Sect would probably approve of the worship too. Holy Trinity has not uprooted itself from its history "to do so would be to relegate to oblivion all that has been good," said David. They would recognise the Book of Common Prayer at 8am every Sunday and while David doesn't use the multi-story pulpit (twenty feet above contradiction) often, his style is Bible-based, expository teaching that his 18th century predecessors would recognise. 'Middle of the road' Anglican worship was how he described their style - acknowledging that 'the middle of the road can be a dangerous place'.

It would be easy to become bland and mediocre - and of course the churches that appear to thrive in urban areas are often those with distinctive 'high' or 'low' styles. But at Holy Trinity there are plenty walking that white line of central churchmanship with David and his colleagues! I visited at the beginning of September when David warned me that "numbers could be down, they take late holidays in Clapham". But actually the church was pretty full - I gave up counting at around a hundred - all ages, different ethnic groups, quite a number of young families. There were no children's activities that day so they stayed with their parents. Today, Clapham children are no longer banished to special children's galleries which once hung high up on the west end. There are usually age-grouped activities ranging from a crèche to 11 year olds on Sundays.

"Holy Trinity is very big and very obvious" David said. "People can't fail to notice that we are here on Clapham Common - after that it is the quality of welcome, the quality of worship and the quality of ministry which matters. I hope an imposing building doesn't give the wrong signals".

The service was Common Worship Parish Communion. There was considerable lay involvement from reading lessons to leading intercession. The music ranged from 'Glorious Things of Thee are Spoken' to 'Such Love' and an African communion anthem. Holy Trinity has several 'choirs' - actually one choir but they form into different groups for different services - all master-minded by organist and choir director Antony le Fleming.

I think Wilberforce would also have approved of the support for Sam Sunday - a Rwandan refugee who had that week been granted asylum after considerable pastoral support by the parish. He had also been given a flat and Holy Trinity folk would be helping him to furnish and decorate - after all he was already 'one of the family'. Mission is also high on the agenda - both abroad, where strong links with CMS and its mission partners are supported, and at home including the Alpha course.

Later in the week I met the 'team'. They meet regularly during the week for prayer and hold a staff meeting every Tuesday morning. Holy Trinity has David as Rector plus one stipendiary curate, Andrew Cinnamond, one NSM (effectively full-time but unpaid) Caroline Clarke, and a Minister in Secular Employment, Mike Strange who has a homeopathic practice in Clapham Junction. There is also a Reader, Rosy Skinner, two SPAs John Lamb and Anne Isherwood; and Ruth Thomas who has recent started training for the ordained ministry on the SEITE course. Then there's the Parish Office equipped by computer hardware by QAS (Quick Address Software) and staffed by Parish Secretary Gill White. Gill is also chair of governors at the local CofE school, Macauly and that contact with parents is one which Holy Trinity fosters and values highly.

Quite a set up. But this is at present the hub of the Clapham Team Ministry and if the scheme for the revision of ministry in Clapham completes its course, all that will change. The Clapham Team is currently 6 independent parishes of varying styles and sizes and making up two thirds of the parishes in the Deanery.

"Putting it bluntly, it hasn't worked effectively. Two and a half attempts to get it right meant something was wrong" said David. He knew it when he arrived six years ago - but he was given a mandate by Holy Trinity to review and reorganise the Team into a more manageable ministry. So if the scheme currently with the Church Commissioners is adopted, Holy Trinity will become a United Benefice with St Peter's. While they are different styles (St Peter's is more Anglo-Catholic) but they are neighbours and serve two halves of the same community. The other four churches may become three benefices. Holy Trinity w St Peter's will keep the same 'team' and in any case as Team Rector, David has been Priest in Charge at St Peter's (and recently St John's too).

"As a team we dominated the deanery. On the other hand with six PCCs getting a consensus on any of the hard issues of ministry was quite difficult. Vacant posts in the team meant we were often stretched and other parishes in the deanery needed a hand, you felt guilty helping out. It was an impossible situation. Obviously there are a few anxieties to be worked through but generally all the parishes are in favour."

At the team meeting I ask about the 'problems'.

Time management is a problem for the clergy - coping with the local expectation of a 'round the clock' professional service is very demanding but fulfilling. David said "Many of our people lead busy and active lives. They give up evenings for church work and understandably expect us to be there".

Having said that the team isn't drawing in its horns. Quite the opposite. There is negotiation with QAS for Caroline to work at the company in order to better understand the issues of work and employment - industrial mission is part of being priest to the whole parish. Andrew will be getting experience at Trinity Hospice and Rosy Skinner and Mike Strange are working at Guy's & St Thomas's and Wormwood Scrubs.

So what would the Clapham sect think if they came back? Personally I think they'd feel at home - and would approve the continuing evolution of their 'alma mater'.

John Lamb, Andrew Cinnamond, Gill White, Rosemary Skinner, Caroline Clarke